Famed for its fresh interpretation on traditional Thai food, Paste Bangkok (Paste Innovation Eating House) is helmed by Australian Chef Jason. From my recent experience, Paste definitely deserves every commendation that it has garnered over the last few months.

Located at the inconspicuous Sukhumvit Soi 49, it took my friends and me some time to find this secluded restaurant situated directly opposite the Sumitive J Hospital and besides the S&P restaurant. Paste has about 50 seats spread over two levels with the bulk on the ground floor (the second level can seat about 8 diners).

The restaurant was rather crowded on a Sunday evening. We were seated on the second level and were the only group there. With only two waiters (one of them is a trainee), one bartender, one chef and his assistant, it took them 20 minutes to come and take our food orders. The food wasn’t served till another half an hour later. Thankfully, we had some light snacks before we went for dinner.  If not, our hunger pangs would have killed us after a near one-hour wait.

We ordered four main courses to share among the three of us. First, I’m not a big fish fan.  And I was pleasantly surprised that out of the four dishes, my favourite is actually the Steamed Wild Seabass Filet with Longan Honey, Fennel and Lemongrass ‘Ion’ Sauce (THB550). The seabass is extremely fresh and its meat is really smooth. The slightly dense sauce has a right balance of spiciness and sourness, and it complements the saltwater fish extremely well. I also enjoy the generous amount of fried shallots on top of the fish.

Equally good is the Tamarind and Caramel Twice Cooked Kurobuta Pork Belly with Green Mango, Red Okra and Basil (THB470). The pork skin is sweet and crunchy. And the fat in the pork belly just melts in your mouth. Diners who enjoy pork belly will love this dish.

The Braised Australian Beef Rib with Ginger, Rice Paddy Herb, Young Tamarind Leaves and Mushroom Soy is a must-have for beef lovers.  The braised beef is so well executed that the tender meat has already fallen off the bone when served. The juicy beef is succulent and flavourful.  My Thai friend, who went to Paste with me, loved this dish most.

Unfortunately, the Wok Fried Tender Pencil Asparagus and a Combination of Changmai Mushrooms pales in comparison to the meat dishes. It is mediocre and at THB380, it is way too expensive for a simple vegetable dish. The dessert menu is unimpressive too and we left without having any.

Paste has some great dishes but I’m not sure whether the prices are justifiable or sustainable. Unless it’s relying solely on the expatriate community and tourists, Paste will need to fine tune its pricing strategy if it wants to attract more locals. And with the uncertainty over the current political unrest in Bangkok, its tourist base might just dwindle off. Paste might also want to reduce the waiting time.  Thank goodness, I had something light before I went for dinner. If not, I would have walked out and ate somewhere else.

Paste Bangkok
120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, Klongton Nua, Vadhana,
Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Tel: +66(0)2 392 4313
www.pastebangkok.com